The original Washi pattern has an empire waistline. I like it sometimes, but depending on the fabric that I'm using that cut can have a maternity look on me, especially since I have a long torso. So the main modification I made to the pattern was to add a little length to the bottom of the front bodice. I also tinkered with the neckline a bit, which I will show you below.
By extending the bodice just a little bit, the seam hits in a very flattering place--just above my natural waistline. At the fold, your bodice should be 1.5" longer than the pattern. Since the pattern curves a bit, the outer edge (side seam) of the bodice will be 1.25" longer than the pattern--just follow the curve of the original pattern. What I actually did was cut a size small, but with a size XL length, which adds the amount of length above.
|Forgot to get any pictures of the back though!|
You don't have to adjust the bust darts--it really is just a simple matter of adding that little bit of length to the bodice. The shirring in the back gives it a lovely fit. If you go much longer than I did though, the torso portion of the bodice will start to pull and wrinkle. I tried with a less forgiving fabric--I got a wrinkled bodice whenever I sat down. If you want an even lower waistline you will probably have to make additional adjustments to the pattern.
This particular fabric that I used is slightly crinkly, so it has a little bit of stretch. I usually make a medium in the Washi dress, using the same bodice adjustments described above, but this time I made a small to allow for the stretch. I find it really comfortable and flattering--if you can find a woven with a bit of stretch, it works well to size down for a more fitted look!
|A closer look at the fabric--another one of my 100-yen-per meter finds in Tokyo, |
meaning this dress cost me about $2 to make.
For the neckline on this dress, I used the pattern neckline as a guide but cut it a bit lower and wider. The depth of my neckline went right to the line of the signature "U" cutout in the Washi neckline, and then I curved it out beyond the pattern neckline but made sure the shoulder straps stayed the same width. Here's a picture of how my adjusted neckline (the blue line) looks compared to the original pattern:
There you have it! Hopefully these adjustments will give you some more options with the Washi!