Nani Iro Bess Alder Mash-Up Dress

When I found this 2-meter cut of Nani Iro double gauze in a Nippori fabric store about a month ago, I knew I would use it to make a dress for myself.  I love the loose, casual style of Japanese patterns (like this, or this), and they are so tempting, especially because that style looks so cute on the Japanese women I see walking around here in Tokyo all the time!  BUT every time I have tried on that type of garment in a store, it just looks terribly unflattering on me.  So I have managed to resist--but I still feel like this dress has a bit of that Japanese style as an inspiration, especially in this beautiful Japanese fabric, while finding a design that flatters my figure more.

The fabric is Nani Iro Pierre Pocho Fortune Stones Double Gauze in Forest.

This dress is a combination of two patterns from Imagine Gnats.  When I guest posted on her site for Selfish Sewing Week, I got to spend some money in her shop, and when I saw this tutorial from Teresa of Dandelion Drift about how to combine the Bess Top and Alder Skirt pattern into a dress, I bought the two patterns right away!

I definitely feel like I achieved the look that I was going for--casual, comfortable, loose and breathable (the double gauze feels amazing and will be so great when the weather gets so hot and humid here), while still skimming my figure enough to be flattering.

The skirt has darts in the back, which helps with the shaping, and I chose a smaller size top than my measurements suggested (I made a wearable muslin first to make sure it would work!) since the Bess Top is meant to be rather loose.

I love the pockets, too--nice and wide and comfy, and I love the angle that adds a nice design element.  I would probably extend my pocket bags by just a little bit the next time I make this--they seem a little shallow for my taste.  But I just love a pattern where I don't have to add my own pockets!

In case you're not familiar with the Bess Top pattern, it has a cool shoulder design where the back panel wraps around to create the armhole.  On my muslin, I used a different fabric for the back and front so it's a nice way to add an accent fabric.

By the way, my mom is a jewelry designer--she made me this necklace for Christmas!
 Here's her website :)

Since I only had 2 meters of this fabric, I got nervous that I wouldn't be able to fit all my pattern pieces in--but I managed to squeeze it out by turning the fabric for the back panel in the opposite direction!  Phew!  Although it would have looked cool with an accent back as well--I think I would have made the visible pocket lining match the back/sleeve fabric if that had been the case.  Maybe I'll try that next time!

OH, and when I was trying out the fit before I sewed the neck binding, I decided to lower the neckline a bit--pretty typical for me.  There are two neckline options with this pattern and I had cut out the lower one but I like just a little bit more scoop even than that.

I'm really happy with how it came out, and I'll have to add my neckline adjustment to my pattern!

I wore this dress today running errands on my bike, and I have to report that the skirt width is perfect for riding--not tight enough to restrict pedaling, not loose enough to blow around with every gust of wind.  I imagine this dress will be getting a lot of wear this summer, and the color palette will be great with tights and boots come fall as well!  

Sunny Swing Plantain Mashup!

I have been looking for ways to incorporate all of the awesome woven print fabrics I find here in Tokyo into the comfy knit tops that comprise most of my wardrobe, and when I saw the FREE pattern and tutorial for the cute Sunny Swing Top from The Sara Project I wanted to try it right away!

The only problem with this top for me was that I like a lower neckline.  I already had the (also free) Plantain Tee pattern from Deer and Doe, so I just printed out Sara's cute cap sleeve pattern and followed her directions for making this great top that incorporates knits and woven fabrics, using the bodice from the Plantain Tee that I had already adjusted to make it just the way I like it!

The woven that I used is a Japanese double gauze from Kokka.  I got a one yard remnant for about $3!  And the knit was another Nippori bargain find at 100 yen per meter (although I have no idea about the fabric content since I can't read the bolts!  It doesn't feel synthetic though.)  I bought a ton of this soft knit and have used it for pajamas for my kids as well as a t-shirt for my husband and another top for myself that I don't think I ever blogged about.  I think I'm finally running out of it!

I did french seams to join the woven to the knit, since the double gauze can fray at the raw edges.  I think that I over-compensated on adding in my seam allowance--I bet if I'd just used Sara's pattern I wouldn't have had that problem!  So it's a little extra swingy, but definitely comfy and perfect for Spring!

Hey!  I think I've got my 4th-of-July outfit ready!

Remind me to check that my sleeves are straightened out next time!

CHECK!  Another Selfish Sewing Week/Spring 2015 off the cutting table!